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Need some angle specs for an S&W M66
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 Posted: Thu Oct 27th, 2016 08:25 AM
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HighBC
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Hey guys, need a bit of advice please. Back in the good old days it was by shear stroke of luck that a guy would bump into someone that was, first willing to share their secrets and skills, and secondly just finding someone by word of mouth or by chance meeting that could help. Now days all it takes is some tapping on the key board and you have an almost instant response from munerous professionals and skilled DIY'er.

I'm referring to the front engagement bolt / lug, sorry can't remember the technical description, anyway it snaps into the tip of the extractor rod when the cylinder is closed. The old one was sloppy at rod to lug contact region, S&W didn't leave much room for wear. I guess they do all things with great precision, so I can't, nor should I complain. I think maybe carbon deposits and I'm sure grit from daily carry has caused it to wear much quicker than a safe queen or rarely worn piece. Tucson is dusty and grity so I always find a disturbing amount of grit in various places when I clean my handguns. And because of how quickly this occurs in this environment I'm forced to perform detail cleaning on a regular basis, it's a pain, but if let go and then shot in this state, the wear would present much sooner I'm sure. My other S&W's have always had this part and a couple other challenging one's serviced by S&W when necessary. But if possible, I would prefer to avoid having to ship it off, it feels kind of similar to waving good bye to a loved when they leave for a long trip.

Anyway back to the extractor rod and lug contact angle issue. The revolver locks up nice and solid with the new parts installed, to the extent that there is zero detectable shake any where, she's a tight and clean running girl. The issue is it drags really heavy when working the action. DA or SA and when turning the cylinder by hand when closed. It drags hard enough that the friction generates heat at the mating junction.

My concern and whats very likely to happen is that the timing hand and associated moving parts will wear very quickly, especially in our gritty environment. I tried to copy the original S&W lug angle & internal rod angles, but that steel is some hard stuff, I was barely able to scratch the surface using a fine flat file on the drill after working at it for a good 1/2 hr..

Should I just wear my 66-2 for a while while S&W properly solves this 66-5 issue for me? Or because I like working on my own firearms and am quite accomplished at most tasks, is there a more appropriate tool I need to be using in place of the flat file? I'm thinking maybe my Imperial ream and chamfer tool might handle the task? Or is the steel to hard, thus will it dull / destroy the tool? Because this isn't a job that requires precision to any great degree, I assume all I need is a tool capable of defeating that hard steel.

HBC

Last edited on Thu Oct 27th, 2016 08:31 AM by HighBC



 Posted: Thu Oct 27th, 2016 10:07 PM
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cylinderman
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To my knowledge this bolt located in the bottom lug of the barrel does not require fitting but a good polish would help things, but then again I have not done much smithing on my S&Ws. Is your high friction point at this ejector rod or is it between ejector and frame also how easy is it to unlock cylinder. Cutting that hard steel is best done with a stone, many grits available around 150 for roughing and 600 on up to finish. Brownells has some nice assortments. Perhaps you received a wrong part also were you able to see the problem wear. I usually take that apart to clean out gunk because it starts to stick.



 Posted: Thu Oct 27th, 2016 10:46 PM
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HighBC
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It lock and unlocks smoothly.

And everything is polished up nicely, that was the first thing I did.

But yes, they do require fitting, at least all one's I've ever come across have.

Yes, the area of wear is very obvious, grooved at contact point.

HBC



 Posted: Fri Oct 28th, 2016 02:26 AM
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Plainsman
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I'd recommend sending it back to Smith and letting them make it right. There may be some other dimensional problems in your crane that need attention. Your call.



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 Posted: Fri Oct 28th, 2016 03:01 AM
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cylinderman
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HighBC wrote:
It lock and unlocks smoothly.

And everything is polished up nicely, that was the first thing I did.

But yes, they do require fitting, at least all one's I've ever come across have.

Yes, the area of wear is very obvious, grooved at contact point.

HBC

Just looked at all mine particularly my M10 that I have been trying to wear out for a long time. I can see the contact point but cannot detect wear, you must have a very abrasive invironment. I will say that none of mine have much spring pressure, the pin in the ejector rod is under far more tension. Another observation is this bolt is shaped so it just touches the pin that goes through the ejector rod while riding the circumference of the rod. Or possible a little clearance between taper on bolt and rod with pin in center touching. When I push the latch on mine the bolt immediately moves indicating they are touching. Hope this makes sense and might help



 Posted: Fri Oct 28th, 2016 08:06 AM
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HighBC
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Makes perfect sense Cylinderman, and that is exactly how the original factory assembly functions in all of mine as well.

And yes, the environment that my daily carry gun are subjected to is extremely hard on them. Those that don't get carried daily rarely experience excessive wear and tear issues of this nature.

I'm gonna just ship it back to S&W, I'm just not properly equipped to handle this. Good enough, isn't good enough for my revolver girls, they deserve special treatment IMO. And considering this is one of my favorite carry guns, cosmetic flaws are almost meaningless to me, but I do insist on them running flawlessly, my life depends on it. So it looks like the 66-2 will take it's place for a little while, it hasn't been getting much attention lately, and she runs & shoots the same as the -5.

Thanks for the advice my friend!

HBC



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