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Homemade Firearm Cleaners & Lubricants
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 Posted: Sun Nov 1st, 2009 03:25 AM
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daboone
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found this site while browsing:

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm



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 Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 01:39 AM
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miestro_jerry
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I have made Ed's Red up for a few years now, he is a prolific write and craftsman in the gun biz

Jerry



 Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 02:05 AM
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Charley



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Ed's Red is a very good cleaning solvent. I use it almost exclusively for cleaning my cast bullet slingers. Carb or brake cleaner is the same solvent that the "gun stuff" is, at about 1/4 the price. Good, CHEAP case lube is lanolin based wire pulling lube, last I bought was about $6 a quart.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 02:07 AM
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daboone
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I really like Ed's red too. I also like his 7.62x39 mold design.

How are you doing I assume you're at the apex of the H1N1 dance/nightmare



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 Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 11:40 PM
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miestro_jerry
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daboone,

I spent the day on the couch, then I went to bed and took a nap. Then I ordered a couple of things for my reloading.

Tomorrow is going to be exciting, my biweekly whole milk delivery should be here at 11 a.m., then I have to process and most likely freeze 3/4 of it.

Thanks for asking,

Jerry



 Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 12:01 AM
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MontanaShooter
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Anyone have a homemade recipe for Cast bullet lube?



 Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 01:55 AM
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Charley



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Go look up "Felix Lube" on cast boolits, here:http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

It works pretty well.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 02:11 AM
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MontanaShooter
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thanks charley have you used this in smokeless as well? I never really could see what the difference was in that area but ive always bought it so never had to ask the question. Also do you know where you get mineral oil??? and what is it. Just trying to be self suffecient :)



 Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 02:23 AM
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ghrit



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MontanaShooter wrote: thanks charley have you used this in smokeless as well? I never really could see what the difference was in that area but ive always bought it so never had to ask the question. Also do you know where you get mineral oil??? and what is it. Just trying to be self suffecient :)Mineral oil is a pretty common paint thinner.  Your local hardware store will have it.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 02:30 AM
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Charley



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It's a smokeless lube, at least that is how I have used it. Mineral oil is available at  most drugstores.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 03:10 AM
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fryboy
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it's also in baby oil lolz but i dont think the other added stuff would help lolz ( on second thought it mite smell better than some lubes i have smelled.....lolz)



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 Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 03:22 PM
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Charley



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Here is Harris' formula, straight from the LA Silhoutte Club's website.

http://www.lasc.us/EdsRedBoreCleaner.htm



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 Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 12:59 AM
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OldStuffer



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MontanaShooter wrote: thanks charley have you used this in smokeless as well? I never really could see what the difference was in that area but ive always bought it so never had to ask the question. Also do you know where you get mineral oil??? and what is it. Just trying to be self suffecient :)

If that is the same "mineral oil" I am used to dealing with (the only one I am aware of), it is widely available, Wal-mart, pharmacies, grocery stores sometimes.

It is drinkable as a laxative, and it is an instant neutralizer for Skydrol hydraulic oil (corrosive to human flesh), usable for injestion, topical contact to the skin, and especially if gotten in the eyes.

Probably has many uses I am unaware of.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 02:11 AM
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Charley



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Yep, same stuff.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 22nd, 2009 01:45 PM
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hwy40
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Since there was very little info on the electric bore cleaner and its construction, I thought I would share this write up from the Mauser Central website, http://www.mausercentral.com/index.htm

Electric bore cleaner - All you need is an electrode, a power supply and some wires and alligator clips. The electrode can be a coat hanger (make sure it is free of any varnish) or a store-bought thin wire rod. Use some heat-shrink tubing at the bottom of the rod and along its length in various places to prevent the rod from contacting the gun at any point in the barrel. (A short Circuit) The power supply consists of 2 `C' cell batteries simply duct-taped together. There is no need for any fancy battery holders. Use only the 2 `C' cells! There is no need for more power than this! The Positive power supply lead is attached to a good contact point of the rifle such as the rear sight. The Negative lead goes to the top of the electrode. Stand the gun upright and lock it into this position. Plug the chamber end of the gun...This can be done by using a fired shell wrapped with some Teflon tape or an automotive tire Valve stem trimmed to fit snugly. Tie a rag around the muzzle end of the barrel to prevent spills!..you can also wrap a layer of duct-tape around the muzzle so you can overfill the bore slightly without it leaking. The barrel is filled with ``Household Ammonia"...You will find this at the grocery store or wherever your wife buys household cleaners...The strength is usually around 10 - 20%, you do not any stronger than that. Don't dilute it, add any other agents to it or substitute anything else for it. Once the bore is filled with ammonia, connect the wires and let the device do its job for ONE HOUR. Keep a close eye on it as the ammonia will foam quite a bit making top-ups needed quite often. After the hour, the gun will need to be thoroughly cleaned with standard bore cleaners and oiled to prevent rust. So what does this thing do and when do you use it? This device is using the actions as a chrome plating shop does but in reverse. The ammonia lifts copper and the electrode attracts it like a magnet. You will see the electrode is quite a mess at the end of an hours use. Just wipe off the deposits though and its ready to use again. This thing is not meant to be used as a regular cleaning tool...There is no need for it after a days shooting inmost cases. It is meant to be used on guns that have not had a proper cleaning in many years...The ones that you can run a patch up and down all day and they still come out dirty! Follow the design and instructions exactly, Use it for what it is and it will save you hours of cleaning time. Try and overpower it, forget that you left it on, or misuse it it any way and you might end up with damage...I have yet to hear of any damage from this when used as I state here.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 22nd, 2009 03:35 PM
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Charley



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Yeah, those work well, too.  Mine is the fancy model, made with a $2.00 flashlight, so mine has an on/off switch! It eats copper fouling as well as the commercial models, and much, much cheaper!



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"The fact that guns can kill another human being is the whole point. That's why they are so darn good at deterring violent criminals". Ann Coulter


 Posted: Sun Nov 22nd, 2009 04:36 PM
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daboone
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Charley wrote: Yeah, those work well, too.  Mine is the fancy model, made with a $2.00 flashlight, so mine has an on/off switch! It eats copper fouling as well as the commercial models, and much, much cheaper!
You and must of read the same article (unless you wrote it!) because I use a flashlight too for the on/off and power source. I think it was at Surplusrifles which has several interesting article.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 22nd, 2009 05:08 PM
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Charley



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Didn't write it, just shamellessly copied from it...



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