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M77 pillar bedding
 Moderated by: Poacher, DesertMarine
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 Posted: Fri Sep 23rd, 2016 06:58 PM
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Works4ammo
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Greetings all,

My dad has agreed to allow me to play around with a Ruger M77 tang safety in 270 Win.
I want to pillar bed the action to the original hardwood stock and freefloat the barrel.

I plan to use Devcon "steel putty". Midway has pillars made by PTG- is there a better option?
Should I take some of the wood off to allow more "glass" to set?
Do I need the counterbore tool that is sold specifically to install the pillars, or can I buy a tool from the hardware store for cheaper?

Thanks



 Posted: Fri Sep 23rd, 2016 07:24 PM
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BEAR
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Unless your stock wood is 'soft' in the area of the action screws, I doubt pillow bedding will help anything.

Not sure of the cartridge (458 are needing more than 257 R). But I'd bed the barrel. The M77 tang models were never 'shooters' (got me some). the barrels were very thin, and the bedding of the stock can change the harmonic for the positive.

Crowning the muzzle is also a good starting place.

The recoil lug on the m77 is angled (very poor design) so pillar bedding if done right will just prevent the lug from properly engaging the stock.

Some people like to glass bed the area behind that stupid angled front lug. should probably be a utube video on it!

just my thoughts.

Last edited on Fri Sep 23rd, 2016 07:29 PM by BEAR



 Posted: Fri Sep 23rd, 2016 08:12 PM
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Works4ammo
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Thanks very much.



 Posted: Fri Sep 23rd, 2016 09:07 PM
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Works4ammo
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I should also add: it's control feed.
My dad said he couldn't find Mk2 etched anywhere. Most people think the original 77's were all push feed.
I don't know if this will make any difference.

Edit: I was mistaken. Its a push feed. I just assumed it was crf because of that big claw.

Last edited on Fri Sep 23rd, 2016 09:19 PM by Works4ammo



 Posted: Fri Sep 23rd, 2016 10:57 PM
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Jaeger
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I agree with all that. Put an 11 degree target crown on it, float the barrel back to where the chamber bulges and then see how it shoots (I bet much better). I would true the action before I tried to bed it. That would be my last step to wring more precision out of it.

I've done the above to 2 M-77s and both are practically target guns now. The .220 swift shoots under a .6 five shot strung, and the 7mm Rem Mag just a little over that. For an off the rack hunting rifle that's darned good.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 23rd, 2016 11:09 PM
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Works4ammo
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Jaeger wrote:
I agree with all that. Put an 11 degree target crown on it, float the barrel back to where the chamber bulges and then see how it shoots (I bet much better). I would true the action before I tried to bed it. That would be my last step to wring more precision out of it.

I've done the above to 2 M-77s and both are practically target guns now. The .220 swift shoots under a .6 five shot strung, and the 7mm Rem Mag just a little over that. For an off the rack hunting rifle that's darned good.


Awesome. Thanks.



 Posted: Sat Sep 24th, 2016 06:57 AM
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Purpledog
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Hi, I'm new to the forum, as a matter of fact this is my first post and your question caught my eye.
I've had a Ruger m77 w/tang safety 25-06 since 1985, has served me well for years but started experiencing accuracy issues. I have toyed around with doing the very same thing to mine and came across a guy on youtube that has years of professional experience and he told me the following concerning bedding and free floating the m77:


["I would proceed thusly: Do NOT free float the underside of the barrel until you glass bed the action. This will provide a home for the action, to support it. Channel out the first 1-1/2 inch of the barrel, shim the underside, forward, and side edges of your recoil block with at least two layers of blue masking tape and build a putty or clay dam to prevent flow of the bedding compound beyond your new barrel support. Use Accraglass gel, if this is your first time. Follow all directions from the leaflet. When the bedding has set for 24 hours, then remove the factory wooden barrel support out front, and free float the barrel with at least 1/32 inch clearance.

Rugers respond well to free floated barrels, but not with conventional methods that leave the barrel diving from the angled screw, tourquing the rails of the action. By bedding first, and supporting the rear of the barrel, all should work nicely."]



I don't know if i'll bed/free float my rifle, but if I do this is the method i'll use. Just passing this on as "informational insight" I like his concept to bed the action before removing the upper pressure spot, and he's the only one i've ever read that gave this technique and i've read tons. Good luck with however you decide to proceed and keep us updated.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 24th, 2016 07:35 AM
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swampshooter

 

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Brownells sells a V shaped aluminum front bedding block for the 77's. IMHO that is the way to go.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 24th, 2016 01:29 PM
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SavageShooter



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swampshooter wrote:
Brownells sells a V shaped aluminum front bedding block for the 77's. IMHO that is the way to go.

+1 here

The M77 with the front pillar is a nightmare if your just a hobbyist gunsmith.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 24th, 2016 04:18 PM
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Crockett
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I have a 77 ultra light that needed presure on the barrel. Free floated it was wild. Added some electrical tape on the presure point and it was a 1" shooter with the right load. The action was not glass bedded as suggested above.



 Posted: Sat Sep 24th, 2016 10:42 PM
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Jaeger
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The two I have shoot straight for thousands of rounds and aren't bedded. I'll grant you that floating it all the way to the action would require additional support, but you can always float the rest and then bed it if it still won't shoot. I haven't found the need to go through all that, and think an incremental approach is wiser, unless you just want to it.



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 Posted: Sun Sep 25th, 2016 02:11 AM
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lscraig1968
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I have my father in laws old m77 mkII in .243. The best it shot was like 1.5" at 100 yards. When I decided to doctor it, I acraglas bed the barrel and the action. The barrel is a pencil barrel and was not free floated to begin with. The other tune up I did was on the factory trigger. There are several articles on how to improve the factory trigger. The ruger trigger was very simple to hone and square up.

Now she shoots .5" at 100 yards. That's pretty good from a stock factory rifle.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 27th, 2016 11:09 PM
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Purpledog
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Another good tip i picked up on was to make sure you free float the magazine box. With the action screws tightened to spec make sure the magazine box has a little wiggle room and is not pressed up against the action ultra tight. If the magazine box isn't loose it can cause your groups to open up. If it is tight you can file the notches (cut outs) a little deeper locted on the front and back BOTTOM of the box.



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But thou, O LORD, art a shield for me; my glory, and the lifter up of mine head.


 Posted: Fri Sep 30th, 2016 03:01 AM
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Works4ammo
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Thanks for all the replies!!
Sorry, I didn't respond earlier. I've been swamped.



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