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30-30 Crimp
 Moderated by: Slingshot, Rockydog, klallen, DesertMarine, -6
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 Posted: Sat Jan 21st, 2017 01:21 AM
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sirtallstuff
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I am new to reloading crimped rounds.

People who load 30-30 WIN which crimp(s) do you use and why?

I am looking to use RCBS dies.

Thanks!!



 Posted: Sat Jan 21st, 2017 01:30 AM
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Rockydog



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If these are for a lever gun, excluding Savage 99s, you'll want to use a roll crimp. You'll probably want to crimp in the cannelure also. Cartridges placed up the tube will have the bullets set back into the case from spring and recoil forces in the tube. Setting bullets back can cause feeding issues and raise pressures due to less capacity in the case once the bullet is shoved back. RCBS 30-30 dies are set up to roll crimp 30-30. RD



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 Posted: Sat Jan 21st, 2017 01:52 AM
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Snuffy
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RD knows what he speaks of.:thumbs:

I don't load for 30-30, but I really like the Lee Factory Crimp dies. They will crimp in a cannelure and will even crimp a bullet without a cannelure.

I use them in .300 Blackout, .308 Win, 30-06 Spring, and .223 Rem.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 21st, 2017 04:05 AM
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STIHL
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Lee factory crimp die. It will be the perfect addition to your 30-30 die set. They are very inexpensive compared to most of the equipment we use. And they are worth every penny. I just got one for my firty firty and it was money well spent does an excellent job.



 Posted: Sat Jan 21st, 2017 05:29 AM
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HighBC
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You'll be just fine using the seat die that came with the RCBS die set. The roll crimp feature should be standard with that die set.

And as mentioned already, crimp into the canelure, you don't want to risk bullet set back if being fired from a tubular magazine.

HBC



 Posted: Sat Jan 21st, 2017 12:03 PM
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olyeller
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HighBC wrote: You'll be just fine using the seat die that came with the RCBS die set. The roll crimp feature should be standard with that die set.

And as mentioned already, crimp into the canelure, you don't want to risk bullet set back if being fired from a tubular magazine.

HBC

This ^ is the best way to do it for thutty-thutty, IMO. Follow the RCBS instructions and when you seat the bullet, you are through with that round.

Just be sure to trim all cases to same length after resizing and before you add primer, powder and bullet. It's just SOP, but necessary.

Now if you load for a bolt action, you don't necessarily need to crimp.

ETA: I have a Lee FCD for 30-30 and sometimes use it. It does a good job, but not any better than the RCBS can do, and adds a step to the process. To each his own; I think I wasted my money buying it, since it is redundant to the tool (bullet seater die) I already had.:rolleyes:

Last edited on Sat Jan 21st, 2017 12:10 PM by olyeller



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 Posted: Sat Jan 21st, 2017 07:05 PM
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HighBC
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Excellent point Olyeller! Consistently trimmed brass should be standard operating procedure for this process. Bottle necks are easy to buckle, and inconsistent brass only complicates the process, not too mention ruined brass.

HBC



 Posted: Sun Jan 22nd, 2017 01:17 AM
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Damannoyed
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sirtallstuff wrote:
I am new to reloading crimped rounds.

People who load 30-30 WIN which crimp(s) do you use and why?

I am looking to use RCBS dies.

Thanks!!


Here comes the undies...................

"Depends".................. :troll:


In a tube-magazine like a lever action, you need a roll crimp into a cannelure, to keep the spring pressure and recoil from setting the bullets back.
Flat point bullets too, NO SPITZERS ALLOWED!!!!!!!

Now,, if you have a conventional stacked magazine of some sort, you can use any bullets and you could roll, taper, or not crimp however works for you.
If you get feeding setback,, you need to either taper or roll crimp.



 Posted: Mon Jan 23rd, 2017 12:37 AM
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Irish Bird Dog
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sirtallstuff...Welcome to the site, happy to see another reloader coming into the ranks.

Good advice so far....Now my $0.02 worth... for the 30-30 (.32 Spl)the cases MUST be trimmed to the same length for a good crimp with RCBS roll crimp type dies...if not you will certainly "wrinkle" some necks. Therefore it makes good sense to use a LEE FCD(factory crimp die)cartridge specific.

Makes a good crimp even if for some reason you don't trim each time...Lee FCD is well worth the minor expense. It is an extra step as noted previously...running them thru one more die.

I use a Lee FCD for my Cowboy loads too in .45 Colt for both revolvers and rifle as I use the same bullet/load for each.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 23rd, 2017 03:12 PM
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Ruffian
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Great advise on the above mentioned items. The big mistake is when you try to do both operations at the same time ( seating bullet / crimp the bullet ) RCBS dies are with the crimp already in the die. Just seat the bullet to the proper depth and then adjust the die down for the crimp.( don't shave the brass ) Don't need a separate crimp die. Been loading 30-30 / 32's /38-55's and other tubular magazines rifles and my rounds comes out great and I don't kill the brass. Same for my pistol rounds and also for any of the larger magnum rifle rounds with that heavy recoil.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 23rd, 2017 06:13 PM
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LAH
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STIHL wrote:
Lee factory crimp die. It will be the perfect addition to your 30-30 die set. They are very inexpensive compared to most of the equipment we use. And they are worth every penny. I just got one for my firty firty and it was money well spent does an excellent job.

I use the Lee crimp die & I'm total happy. On the other hand I had no problem with my RCBS dies long as I seated & crimped separately.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 23rd, 2017 07:22 PM
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Paul B
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I have to agree with all the above with one exception. As I check trim on by 30-30 brass after resizing I just seat and crimp at the same time. Come to think of it, I haven't seated a jacketed bullet in the 30-30 for over 30 to maybe 40 years. I shoot nothing but my home cast bullets in the 30-30 and they kill deer just fine. :thumbs::cool: With the cast bullet sized a nice tight .310", you don't need much of a crimp anyway. :wink:
When I had my 93 Toyota P.U., a 1980's issued M94 rode behind the seat 24/7/365. Never had a problem with the loads going bang whether it was hot or cold. More than one deer or coyote, jack rabbit whatever met their demise without complaint. :thumbs:
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 Posted: Mon Jan 23rd, 2017 08:13 PM
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wcstacf
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Hello sirtallstuff:

I use a Lee crimping die for my .30-.30 reloads. Using the crimp dies does relate to better accuracy. I did my own test using the exact same reloads. One group was crimped and the other group was not.

The group without the crimp looked like I hit the target with buckshot. The group with the crimp gave my sub one inch groups.

I am using Remington brass with the Hornady 160 Grain FTX bullet and it is crimped on the cannulure groove.

Hope it helps

wcstacf



 Posted: Fri Jan 27th, 2017 01:33 PM
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SeabeeChief
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RCBS dies are excellent!! I'd also get a Lee factory crimp die. It is the only way to get a consistent and perfect crimp every time. I load for 30-30 and I use a heavy roll crimp with the FCD. Hard to be consistent when crimping with a seating die. I also have an old Western Auto (Savage 340) 30-30 bolt gun which shoots a bughole @ 100 with crimped ammo using FCD

Ken



 Posted: Fri Jan 27th, 2017 02:09 PM
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olyeller
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SeabeeChief wrote: ......... I also have an old Western Auto (Savage 340) 30-30 bolt gun which shoots a bughole @ 100 with crimped ammo using FCD

Ken
 


Care to share your load data?

If you do, please copy and use the following that can always be found here:
http://www.handloadersbench.com/forum91/12278.html

CAUTION: This post discusses loads or load data that may or may not be appropriate for your gun or for the cartridge(s) and components mentioned. Due to typos, variations in guns and components, and the abilities and judgment of users of this data, neither the writer, Handloadersbench.com, nor the staff of Handloadersbench.com assume any liability for damage or injury resulting from using this information. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DUPLICATE THE DESCRIBED LOADS without first working them up from a published safe starting level charge while watching for pressure signs. If you don't know how to do that please don't use this data, for your own safety and the safety of others.




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 Posted: Fri Jan 27th, 2017 02:44 PM
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SeabeeChief
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CAUTION: This post discusses loads or load data that may or may not be appropriate for your gun or for the cartridge(s) and components mentioned. Due to typos, variations in guns and components, and the abilities and judgment of users of this data, neither the writer, Handloadersbench.com, nor the staff of Handloadersbench.com assume any liability for damage or injury resulting from using this information. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DUPLICATE THE DESCRIBED LOADS without first working them up from a published safe starting level charge while watching for pressure signs. If you don't know how to do that please don't use this data, for your own safety and the safety of others.

The load is Hornady 150 gr SP (#3031) over 32 gr of Win 748. Crimp into cannelure.
DO NOT use these in a tubular magazine. This rifle loves that load.

Ken



 Posted: Fri Jan 27th, 2017 03:19 PM
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olyeller
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Thank you Ken.

I have some of that bullet, but no 748. Will see what I can do. I've noticed using spire points you have to seat deeply to get good cycling thru mag and chamber in the 340. Do you know what your OAL is?

I'm having good luck with Speer 150RN and 27-30gr of IMR4895 in my 340, but not "bugholes".

CAUTION: This post discusses loads or load data that may or may not be appropriate for your gun or for the cartridge(s) and components mentioned. Due to typos, variations in guns and components, and the abilities and judgment of users of this data, neither the writer, Handloadersbench.com, nor the staff of Handloadersbench.com assume any liability for damage or injury resulting from using this information. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DUPLICATE THE DESCRIBED LOADS without first working them up from a published safe starting level charge while watching for pressure signs. If you don't know how to do that please don't use this data, for your own safety and the safety of others.



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 Posted: Fri Jan 27th, 2017 05:53 PM
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SeabeeChief
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Every rifle is different. They each like people, have their own personality. Yours may not like that load. I'm also still using a lot of powder from years back. It is in a metal can.
I used to load Hornady 180 gr RN for a friend's lever action Winchester. As I recall, they used to loosen up the action screws and kick pretty good. They werent hot loads, just a heavy bullet in light rifle.
I've not tried it but I hear very good things about Leverevolution powder in the 30-30. My son's Grendel loves the stuff.



 Posted: Fri Mar 3rd, 2017 08:19 PM
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sirtallstuff
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Thanks for all the replies!!



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