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Rebarreling a Mauser
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 Posted: Mon Feb 13th, 2017 04:21 PM
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tnhunter
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I have an old Mauser 93 that I'm in the process of rebarreling. I picked an adams and Bennett 7x57 barrel. I've already taken the old barrel off and put the new one on. I've got some cutting fluid on the way. I guess what I'm looking for is someone who can give me tips on finishing the headspace. I know to work slow and check often but I have little to no knowledge on what type of reamer to use. I know they have solid pilots and floating pilots. Which is best. Just looking for some tips.



 Posted: Mon Feb 13th, 2017 08:07 PM
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lscraig1968
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If you have already swapped the barrels, it may be more advantageous for a gunsmith to set the headspace.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 13th, 2017 08:10 PM
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tnhunter
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I talked to a local smith. Figured if he was remotely close to what I can rent the gauges and reamer for I would just let him do it. It being a Mauser he said he wouldn't do it. So here I am lol. And honestly I wanna learn To do it myself. Looking for guidance at this point.



 Posted: Mon Feb 13th, 2017 08:19 PM
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Paul B
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I haven't done a rebarrel job on anything since 1973. Did a 93 in 7x57 as I recall. If you have a chamber just about done, you should be able to do the final headspacing with a finish reamer. That's how I did mine but I was working in a gun shop with the gunsmith looking over my shoulder and advising me while I did it.
Kind of curious why the gunsmith refused to do the job. It's like any other Mauser. Maybe it's because of the bad reputation of the 93 and 95 Mausers, much of which I feel is unfounded BTW.
Dunno if Shastaboat will jump in or not but he likes playing with the 93/95 Mausers and has done a few barrel jobs. You might contact him for advice.
Paul B.



 Posted: Mon Feb 13th, 2017 08:21 PM
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tnhunter
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Thanks Paul. That's really what I'm looking for. Planning on using a finish reamer as you stated. When I got the gun it had a 243 barrel and wore plum out.



 Posted: Mon Feb 13th, 2017 11:08 PM
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Charley



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An 1893 Mauser in .243? That's pushing it a lot more than I would be comfortable with.

The A&B barrels just need finish reamed, rent a reamer from Reamer Rentals or CH4D and the finish reamer will do fine. I've rebarreled several Mausers, and I make one full rotation, check headpace, another rotation and check, and so on. Use a good cutting lube on the reamer. Remove the extractor from the bolt before trying to insert the headspace gauge. Makes things a lot quicker and easier.
As long as you don't need to align sights, rebarreling a Mauser isn't that hard.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 14th, 2017 01:31 AM
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tnhunter
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Yes. The gun was chambered in 243. I had little clue about Mauser when I got it in a trade but became intrigued. Quickly learned that the small rings were not rated like the large rings. The guy I got it from thought it was a Swedish but after spending tons of time researching I determined it's a 93. Other than some very faint markings and a number on the side it has no markings.

Charley, is it fairly simple to finish ream. I've watched several videos and have a very good idea what needs to be done. I have no sights to line up which is a huge plus. Ordered some mike o cut for cutting fluid. Should be here tomorrow or Wednesday.



 Posted: Tue Feb 14th, 2017 02:47 AM
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Charley



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Have in, just go slow and measure...a lot! I've done several, from a 95 in 257 Robert (my favorite whitetail rifle) a 1909 Argentine to 22/250, and a couple of Czechs to 338/06 and 35 Whelen. I'm no great talent, if I can do it, most anybody should be able to. All shoot well.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 14th, 2017 03:00 PM
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Paul B
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tnhunter wrote:
Yes. The gun was chambered in 243. I had little clue about Mauser when I got it in a trade but became intrigued. Quickly learned that the small rings were not rated like the large rings. The guy I got it from thought it was a Swedish but after spending tons of time researching I determined it's a 93. Other than some very faint markings and a number on the side it has no markings.

Charley, is it fairly simple to finish ream. I've watched several videos and have a very good idea what needs to be done. I have no sights to line up which is a huge plus. Ordered some mike o cut for cutting fluid. Should be here tomorrow or Wednesday.


To positively ID which Mauser it is, look at the front of the bolt. If it is flat on the bottom it's a 93. If round, could be either a 95 or 96. The back of the bolt on a 96 has a tab that you can pull back to cock the gun without operating the bolt.
I know the strength of these guns is controversial but as Spain made a bunch in 7.62 NATO which ended up here and sold as .308 Win,, I'm thinking they're not as weak as some claim. Use your own judgement as how to reload for your rifle.
Paul B.



 Posted: Tue Feb 14th, 2017 03:04 PM
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tnhunter
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Paul. I determined as you stated with a flat bolt face. I thought I had a 96 for a long time until I seen the bolt shroud. I quickly realized I didn't have a 96. After more researching I decided it was either 93 or 95. The bolt confirmed a 93. I'm gonna load conservative. I no longer have the desire to hot rod. If I need speed I'll go to the 243 or buy a magnum lol



 Posted: Tue Feb 14th, 2017 03:14 PM
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Charley



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I know the strength of these guns is controversial but as Spain made a bunch in 7.62 NATO which ended up here and sold as .308 Win,, I'm thinking they're not as weak as some claim.

Still a lot of arguing about those. Many claim they were converted to 7.62 CETME, same dimensions a the 7.62x51, but operate at a lower pressure level. I do think they are stronger than many give them credit for, though. IF something happens, though, they don't vent gas away from the shooter very well, mostly back along the bolt races and right out the rear of the receiver, from what I've read.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 14th, 2017 03:22 PM
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Paul B
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You should be safe loading to match say Winchester factory 145 gr. loads. Something like 2650 FPS as I recall. Very nice deer load BTW if you can find any. Seems like Federal brand ammo is usually available in 140 and 175 gr. bullet loads. I haven't seen any Remington or Winchester ammo in a long time and they only do runs on a seasonal basis. :pissed: With all the shortages and hoarding these past 8 years, I doubt either company made any brass or ammo in 7x57 during that time frame. :sad:
My choice of brass has been Winchester first, the Remington and Federal last.
Paul B.



 Posted: Tue Feb 14th, 2017 03:37 PM
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tnhunter
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I've got some 140gr prohunters I plan using. I have a chronograph and plan to stay right at 2700. According to my manuals I can go 2800 but I think they used modern actions. So in essence I used factory info and reloading info to hopefully find a safe spot.



 Posted: Tue Feb 14th, 2017 03:43 PM
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Paul B
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Charley wrote:
I know the strength of these guns is controversial but as Spain made a bunch in 7.62 NATO which ended up here and sold as .308 Win,, I'm thinking they're not as weak as some claim.

Still a lot of arguing about those. Many claim they were converted to 7.62 CETME, same dimensions a the 7.62x51, but operate at a lower pressure level. I do think they are stronger than many give them credit for, though. IF something happens, though, they don't vent gas away from the shooter very well, mostly back along the bolt races and right out the rear of the receiver, from what I've read.


I believe that is correct. The original CETME assault rifle could not handle full power loads and the reduced "CETME" load was developed as a stop gap measure. The 93's were barreled to the CETME round as a back measure. IIRC, Kimber imported a large batch of those 93's and 95's and had the H.P. White laboratory proof test them at .308 Win. specs. They all passed. The few I have seen at gun shows were al 1893 Mausers with the flat bottomed bolt and were what I think were Ramline stocks.
Paul B.



 Posted: Tue Feb 14th, 2017 03:48 PM
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Paul B
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One thing I have noticed on hand loading the 7x57 is brass is somewhat notorious for stretching. Even in my custom FN Mauser with match grade chamber I just about have to trim every other loading, more if I load hot. That's just something you'll have to check frequently.. Ken Waters made note of that problem in his Pet loads article on the 7x57. He wasn't kidding.
Paul B.



 Posted: Tue Feb 14th, 2017 04:37 PM
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tnhunter
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I'll have to keep an eye on that. I had a 223 that seemed like I had to trim every loading.


Any of y'all have any leads to a bolt body and cocking piece for a 93. Probably gonna replace mine since it's showing wear. I've found a couple places that carry them but looking for the best deal but also the best shape. Looking at sending it off and having the bolt forged since all I'm finding is straight handles.



 Posted: Tue Feb 28th, 2017 12:05 AM
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tnhunter
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Just an update..... I have a reamer on the way. Should be here By the weekend



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