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gifbohane
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I have RCBS dies for 9mm. I bought the Hornady lock rings.

I set the seating/sizer die to my own appropriate specs and locked the die with the lock ring.

Can I muscle the locked die off the press to hold the settings without damaging it?

I would then just crew the die back in when I want to use it and it will be set up for what I want to do.

I know I could buy the LNL collet that fits onto the press mouth but right now I am thinking about just unscrewing the die out of the press.

Other ideas?

Paul Tummers



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Yes, you should be able to remove them without changing the setting, just make sure, you always use the same shell-holder as you did have in your press when you adjusted your dies.

woodsman777



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Hello gifbohane
Once you lock the ring to the die it should not move, that is their purpose .
Put your wrench to it, break it loose and unscrew it .
When you put it back in the press thread it back in until it stops.
If you snug it with a wrench, do it ever so light.
your dies settings should not change.

HighBC
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Paul Tummers wrote:
Yes, you should be able to remove them without changing the setting, just make sure, you always use the same shell-holder as you did have in your press when you adjusted your dies.

Paul, don't all standard shell holders have the same deck height dimension of .125"? I don't mix and match shell holders very often, but I have swapped Hornady, Lee and RCBS on occasion, never noticed a variation, but maybe I'm missing something here?

HBC

gifbohane
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Paul & Woodsman

Thanks!

Rockydog



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HighBC wrote:
Paul Tummers wrote:
Yes, you should be able to remove them without changing the setting, just make sure, you always use the same shell-holder as you did have in your press when you adjusted your dies.

Paul, don't all standard shell holders have the same deck height dimension of .125"? I don't mix and match shell holders very often, but I have swapped Hornady, Lee and RCBS on occasion, never noticed a variation, but maybe I'm missing something here?

HBC


HBC, Actually they are close but not always identical. Especially when forming and reloading wildcat brass I always keep a designated shell holder with the set of dies. By dedicating a shellholder I can also use a set of feeler gauges to measure between the top of the shellholder and the bottom of the die. That aids me in setting the die properly if I use a different press. RD

Damannoyed
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gifbohane wrote:
I have RCBS dies for 9mm. I bought the Hornady lock rings.

I set the seating/sizer die to my own appropriate specs and locked the die with the lock ring.

Can I muscle the locked die off the press to hold the settings without damaging it?

I would then just crew the die back in when I want to use it and it will be set up for what I want to do.

I know I could buy the LNL collet that fits onto the press mouth but right now I am thinking about just unscrewing the die out of the press.

Other ideas?
Just pop the die loose with a wrench on the locked lockring and spin it out.

After setting, I rarely tighten mine in again more than by hand.

No, if tight, they do not shift.

Damannoyed
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While shellholders OUGHT to be made the same, there is always manufacturing tolerance.

golong
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YMMV, but I have seemingly always had the lock ring on RCBS dies move when I take the die out. Now granted I do not crank the set screw to the point of snapping an allen key, but they do flex pretty good when I tighten them.

With pistol loads, I would "think" any variance in the same class of shell holders from the same mfg. would be fine. However, RCBS (and I assume others?) also make special extended shell holders for use with specific dies - they are very easy to spot so no problems picking up the wrong one :-/

Rockydog



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I remove the set screw on my RCBS dies and drop a single number 6 lead shot in the hole and thread the set screw back in and tighten. The lead grips the threads but keeps the set screw from messing with the die threads. The lead will slide around the threads when the ring is turned and will snug up again with no problem.

daboone
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Not if you change to a different shellholder or press. But once set for the the same press and shellholder then you should be good to go. Of course there are laws of Murphy to deal with. How tight did you tighten the lockring and or how hard did did to secure the lockring/die to the press? Either can influence the sizing, bullet seating crimping adjustment. Like so many things in handloading being consistent is mandatory. Hornady lock rings are excellent because they "crimp" the die in place rather than setting a screw into the die's threads.

Ruffian
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Have to go along with some of the above post and that of RD & Daboone. Went to Hornady and got there lock rings and installed on my RCBS dies, no damage to the die threads now.:thumbs:

Last edited on Sat Mar 11th, 2017 11:31 AM by Ruffian

JoeBUtah
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Rockydog wrote:
I remove the set screw on my RCBS dies and drop a single number 6 lead shot in the hole and thread the set screw back in and tighten. The lead grips the threads but keeps the set screw from messing with the die threads. The lead will slide around the threads when the ring is turned and will snug up again with no problem.

That, RD gets my vote for "Tip of the Year". What a great idea!

gifbohane
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Ruffian wrote:
Have to go along with some of the above post and that of RD & Daboone. Went to Hornady and got there lock rings and installed on my RCBS dies, no damage to the die threads now.:thumbs:

Did the same. I liked the idea of clamping rather than gouging the threads.

Rockydog



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JoeBUtah wrote:
Rockydog wrote:
I remove the set screw on my RCBS dies and drop a single number 6 lead shot in the hole and thread the set screw back in and tighten. The lead grips the threads but keeps the set screw from messing with the die threads. The lead will slide around the threads when the ring is turned and will snug up again with no problem.

That, RD gets my vote for "Tip of the Year". What a great idea!


Hey, I take no credit for this one. I learned it from somebody on here years ago. My thanks to whoever that was. RD.

Irish Bird Dog
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Been putting a single lead shot into set screw hole in die rings for many years and I didn't think of it on my own either. Must be a really old trick. Many newer style rings are split & tighten horizontally so "crimp" the ring tight so not needed there.

Rockydog



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Irish Bird Dog wrote:
Been putting a single lead shot into set screw hole in die rings for many years and I didn't think of it on my own either. Must be a really old trick. Many newer style rings are split & tighten horizontally so "crimp" the ring tight so not needed there.

Now I think I know who I learned this from. :wink: RD

gwpercle
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Different shell holders will play havoc with die adjustments. I kept having die adjustment problems until I realized I had two different 9 mm shell holders and wasn't using the same one each time. A different press will/might cause adjustments to be thrown off.

Drop a lead shot into the lock screw hole, when properly adjusted , lock it down. After that only use the ring to remove or install dies, don't grab the die body or put a wrench on the die body. A light tweak to tighten on the ring with a wrench is more than enough to keep dies in place. Lyman dies used to come with a tool.
Lee dies are another story, they have no set screw so be careful...read the instructions or replace those rings with locking rings.
Gary

Damannoyed
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Once I set a die and remove it from the press, I virtually never use a wrench on them ever again.

I just spin them in hand-tight, spin the m back out again. Sometimes I will have to pop it loose again if I can't by hand.

Now, once in a while to adjust a seating punch I will have to break the punch locknut loose, and I will have to wrench snug the die to hold it enough, but I never "really lean on" the locknut, even for that situation and I have never found my adjustments to change.
hundreds of die installations and removals.

Changing a press, oh yea, that'll force a complete new resetting. Major resettings done when my Lee Challenger was replaced by my Lyman Crusher II, on every single die.
In that case every single die had to be lowered in the press to reach the ram/shellholder correctly.

gifbohane
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Daman

When you remove the die do you clasp and turn it by the locking nut and twist it off?

Damannoyed
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gifbohane wrote:
Daman

When you remove the die do you clasp and turn it by the locking nut and twist it off?


If they are wrenched on, I wrench on the locking nut.
If I spun it down by hand, I grab it in a fist same as I tightened it, by the body, and twist it out.

Edit-If I hand-tightened more than I can break loose, yes, the wrench goes on the lock-nut to pop it loose.

The pinch-type locknuts (my Hornady's) do not slide on the threads if they are pinched properly tightly.

I have never had RCBS's brass setscrews slip either from this method. Yes, a piece of lead shot under the setscrew is a solid idea. I didn't do it but I went for the switch to Hornady split rings instead.

The only Lee dies that are still using Lee's o-ring'd jamnut mess, are the ones permanently installed in die heads of my Loadmaster or Pro1000, ones that are set to never be moved.
The ones that go in and out of my Crusher II are split-ringed.

Once I have set a sizing die or crimping die to my happiness, in a given press, they are locked and do not get readjusted (and have never needed to be).

The only adjustment I have ever had to make to a set seat/crimp die is to the seating stem, never to the crimp level. That seating stem adjustment has never altered the crimp level, and so only the stem gets adjusted.

I have a set of .308W dies (Hornady Pacific Durachrome) that held adjustment (other than bullet changes adjusting the seating stem) for 22-some-odd years until I changed the press.
Sets of 45 Auto (Hornady), and 9mmP (RCBS) dies that held setting (again, except seating stems) for around 15 years until that press was replaced.

Those dies were run in and removed from the press hundreds of times. When I loaded handgun ammo on a single-stage press (prior to 2004-ish) making my weekly IDPA 100 rounds took 3 die changes (I made 2 trays of 50 per tray).
I do not store any dies in the press, always in the box, but even if I did, the first die I would need would never be the last one I used. The deprime/size die would be in the box, the seat/crimp die would be in the press.

I do put just a little bit of CLP on the die threads once every few years. I oil the press ram much more often.

Last edited on Wed Mar 15th, 2017 01:11 PM by Damannoyed

gifbohane
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Daman

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

I also bought the Hornady lock rings for the RCBS dies.

I presume that you have carbides?

Damannoyed
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No prob. gif

I use only carbides for straight-wall resizing, I have no interest in wasting time and efforts, making things more complicated than they have to be, by using plain steel straightwall (handgun) dies with case lube.

I own a set of .38/.357 dies by BAIR, they are kinda old, gun show find 20 yrs ago, steel resizer.
I instantly bought a carbide resizer.
Even with the new/extra resizer, the price was acceptable, I knew what I was getting, think I paid under $20 for the set as original.

OK, one handgun die isn't "carbide", it's Titanium Nitride,,, same same though, Hornady set for .45.

Lost-One
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I need to get some lead shot as well for the die's that I have that have set screws. Lyman puts a nylon ball in their dies to act like the lead shot buffer/thread protector and they use this as the set on their universal case trimmer as well, however that nylon for some reason grabs the thread and doesn't like to release, especially on the case trimmer.

On die's this wouldn't be a problem but on a universal case trimmer where you change settings for different cases its a pain in the butt.

Last edited on Wed Mar 15th, 2017 06:46 PM by Lost-One

gwpercle
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If you don't have any lead shot to act as buffers , just snip some copper or aluminum wire , just shorter than hole diameter and drop that in the hole. The wire I had was a small diameter so I snipped two pieces and dropped in the hole....worked fine and I didn't have to cut open a shotgun shell.
Gary

Titan
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Some great ideas here.

I've chosen to standardize on the Hornady LNL system and have the conversion adapter on my Rockchuckers as well.

I'm a big fan of the system and Hornady's locking rings.

noylj
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Steel on steel may be OK
I doubt steel on aluminum would be as obliging.
I REALLY like the Hornady die bushings and wouldn't have a press without die bushings or removable tool head.


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